Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Tuesday 10 February 2009

Une Ile ou Le Petit Comptoir

Une Ile

Despite a population of around 283,000 in greater Angers, the town is short of really good restaurants, so it is probably rather daft trying to stack up Une Ile against Le Petit Comptoir. Both are small restaurants – Le Petit Comptoir has space for just 24/26 people and a few more in Une Ile. Certainly as two of the best restaurants in Angers, if not the best, both should have little problem filling their tables.

Une Ile is a new venture by Catherine and Gérard Bossé, who owned and ran les Tonnelles on the island of Behuard just off Savennières until they closed around Christmas 2008 ready for the move to Angers. Une Ile opened on 21st January. Its decor has Japanese influences. The menu du midi (lunch) is 28€ for an amuse bouche, le plat du moment and cheese. Otherwise the menus are at 48€ (three courses), 58€ (four courses), 80€ menu dégustation, 105€ Les Gourmandises (glass of wine with each course) and 150 menu tout truffe. During the Salon des Vins de Loire I had the good fortune to eat here twice. The cooking is extremely good – the fish outstanding. There is a very good selection of Loire wines with a strong nod towards 'natural' wines. It is, however, in these days of the weak pound, expensive.

The cooking at Le Petit Comptoir run by Laetitia et Stéphane Cosnier is of same standard as Une Ile. I have only ever eaten there on the eve of the Salon des Vins de Loire when they do a single menu at 45€ for four courses. This year I ate here with Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor who is now busiy writing up his reports on the Salon), Neil Irvine (HG Wines) and Tom King from the RSJ Restaurant and we had a very good meal – briefly covered here. The restaurant is on two levels – upstairs is more comfortable. During the winter downstairs can be quite cold, especially when the street door is opened. I fancy that the wine list doesn't change very often and, although there are good things on it, it wouldn't hurt to be changed more often. However, as the restaurant is small this may be difficult.

The day before we had eaten at Le Relais, which continues to be good – both cooking and for rapport qualité prix – as well as an interesting wine selection.

While in Angers I was given two restaurant recommendations, which I haven't had time to try but pass them on anyway:

Chez Rémi on Boulevard du Marechal Foch just along from the Hotel d'Anjou and roughly across the room from the Marine Hotel. I made a point of going past here on my way back from Une Ile on the Monday of the Salon. Although it was around 11.30pm Chez Rémi was packed with its clientele singing Burgundian drinking songs. I noticed someone came out from the restaurant to pick up a bottle from their car, so I guess there must have been a fair number of vignerons inside. There is a menu at 26€, which included boudin noir fait maison and rognons de veau.

I did recommend Chez Remi to a good friend and so hoped to get a report from him but unfortunately he spurned the suggestion, even though it was just across from his hotel, and instead went for a Chinese meal, which turned out to be vile. I have no sympathy – John! Next time I'm in Angers I'll make a point of going there.

Côté Louet in Murs Erigné on the south side of the Loire is the other recommendation. It is run by Nadège Loiseau and Etienne Duc, who took over in May 2008 when they took over the old Beau Rivage restaurant and renamed it. As it was Catherine and Vincent Ogereau, who recommended it I'm sure it is good.

I don't know about Côté Louet but for the four restaurants in Angers it is definitely best to book.

Une Ile, 9 rue Max Richard 49000 Angers. Tel: 02.41.19.14.48
Le Petit Comptoir, 40, Rue David d'Angers, 49100 Angers Tel: 02.41.88.81.57
Le Relais, 9 Rue de la Gare, 49100 Angers. Tel: 02.41.88.42.51
Chez-Rémi, 7 Bis, Boulevard du Marechal Foch, 49100 Angers. Tel: 02 41 24 95 44‎
Côté Louet, 22 Rue Maurice Berne. 49610 Mûrs Erigné. Tel: 02.41.57.72.49.


2 comments:

Unknown said...

Hi Jim
We've eaten at Chez Remi on two occasions and both were extremely good. At lunch there is a set menu with no choice. We had a very light carrot soup served with a bed of caramelised onions in the middle followed by a shark steak with quinoa and a beurre blanc sauce. Our second visit was with friends in the evening - there is a little more choice (3 entrees, plats etc). We enjoyed beef cheek that was served with a rich red wine reduction followed by a dense chocolate pud. Others had scallops and fish. I seem to remember we drank one of Jo Pithon's wines but which one escapes me. Staff were helpful and friendly but as it's very tiny you need to get there early or book in advance. We have yet to try Le Petit Comptoir but it's on our list to try shortly.

Jim's Loire said...

Many thanks for this Cathy. Clearly one to try.